Splash of Cranberry Fingerless Mitts Pattern
I really love garments and objects that have an unexpected pop of color. I especially love aquamarine blue with a pop of red as an accent. These colors seem to go so well together and seeing them together makes me happy! These little fingerless mitts are perfect for the times in between seasons when it is too cold to have bare hands but too warm for mittens. I knit them using the magic loop method with a long, flexible circular but it can easily be adapted to double points if that’s what you prefer.
You will need:
150 yards of worsted weight wool, or wool blend (Main Color, MC) (I used Berroco Vintage, color #5120)
A small amount of yarn in a contrasting color (Contrasting Color, CC) (I used Brown Sheep Lamb’s Pride Worsted in Cranberry Swirl)
Buttons to match the contrast yarn (I chose mismatched vintage buttons for charm)
Size 7 long circular needles or whatever you need to get gauge (Or a set of double pointed needles in that size)
Two stitch markers
Thread to match buttons and a sewing needle
Gauge: 10 st and 14 rows over 2 inches
K – Knit
P – Purl
M1 – Make 1 increase
PM – Place Marker
Sl M – Slip Marker
How to make them:
Cast on 40 stitches in the contrasting color. Pull out a loop of your circular to prepare to knit using magic loop (or arrange on double points). The next step could be done in one of many ways, so you can try different things and see what works best for you. You will need to join your CC in the round, but you will actually start knitting with the MC which will be the main body of the mittens. You can tie the new yarn on to the working yarn of the contrasting color, then carefully join. One other method I tried was to cast on one extra stitch, and join in the round by knitting the last stitch and first stitch together. Then you would proceed with the main color, knitting 2 inches of 2×2 ribbing (K2, P2) or until your cuff is the desired length.
Once your cuff is done, knit one round of stockinette.
For the thumb gusset:
Row 1: K1, PM, M1, K1, M1, PM, K rest of round.
Row 2: K all stitches
Row 3: K1, Sl M, M1, K3, M1, Sl M, K rest of round.
Row 4: K all stitches.
Continue in this way, increasing the thumb gusset stitches by two every other round. When you have 17 stitches between your markers, knit one more round and your thumb gusset will be done.
On the next round, K1, then thread your 17 gusset stitches onto a piece of waste yarn or a stitch holder. You will pick up these live stitches later to make the thumb. Continue to knit the remaining stitches of the round.
On the next round, K1, then cast on 1 stitch. Knit the rest of the round. You will now have 40 stitches again and can continue to work on the main body of the mitt.
Continue knitting for about another inch past the thumb hole. Then change back to 2×2 ribbing for another inch or as desired. You can make this part as long as you need, for whatever is comfortable. When your mitt is long enough, change back to the contrasting color. Work one more round of 2×2 ribbing in CC, then bind off. Carefully weave in ends so that the CC does not show through the MC.
For the thumb: Place live stitches on your circular, and pick up 3 stitches from the body of the mitten. You will have 20 stitches on your circular, Pull out a loop and work 2×2 ribbing until your thumb is of desired length. Change to CC and work one more round of 2×2 ribbing. Bind off and carefully weave in ends. You will also have a tail left at the base of the thumb from picking up the 3 stitches. I like to reinforce the web of the thumb by using the tail to sew a bit from the inside before weaving in that end. I think it finishes off the thumb nicely and will keep that end from coming loose. If you plan to do this, remember to leave a little bit of a longer tail when you pick up the 3 stitches.
Repeat for the other mitten!
Once you have two mittens, you can sew the buttons on the backs of the hands, arranging them in a way that is pleasing to you. Be careful to be sure you have one right and one left, as both mittens will be the same. Sometimes it is helpful to put a pin on the back where the buttons will go. I decided to embroider a spiral on one hand and buttons on the other, I was testing which I liked better and decided to leave them mismatched. You could also leave them plain if you wanted.
You can easily make this larger or smaller by casting on more or fewer stitches in multiples of 4.
As always, if you find an error or have a question, please leave a comment and I will reply right away. I strive to make my patterns easy to understand and fun to do!